Starting seeds is incredibly rewarding, but let’s be honest—things don’t always go smoothly. Here are 4 common seed-starting problems (and how to fix them!) so you can grow more in your garden with fewer headaches!
Seedlings are kind of like kids, don’t you agree? They pop out of their tiny “wombs” and rely on you for everything. Then, before you know it, they’re tall, awkward things stretching their roots and testing your patience at every turn.
There’s no parenting manual for dealing with lanky teenagers, but I can help you with your tall, leggy seedlings—plus a few other common indoor seed-starting issues you might run into while nurturing your sprouts before they head outside.
The Most Common Seed-Starting Problems
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1. My Seeds Never Germinate!
Germination issues can happen for a bunch of reasons. Here are the most common ones:
Incorrect Temperature
Different seeds have different needs. Cool-weather crops like cabbage, kale, or broccoli prefer lower germination temps, while warm-weather crops (like tomatoes) sprout best around 70°F.
If you’re starting seeds in a chilly basement or shed, you might need a heating mat to help them along.
Old Seeds
Stored properly, seeds can last a long time—but the older they get, the lower their germination rate.
For the longest shelf life, keep seeds in a cool, dry place. Humidity and heat will shorten their lifespan.
Incorrect Watering
All plants need water, but during germination, keeping the soil evenly moist is key. Too much water? Seeds may rot. Too little? They’ll either never sprout or die trying.
I use a handheld spray bottle to water my seeds—sometimes a few times a day!
Planting Depth/Light
Planting depth matters! Too deep, and seedlings might run out of energy before reaching light. Too shallow, and they can dry out.
Some seeds even need light to germinate—so instead of burying them, just press them into the soil. Always check your seed packets for specifics!
2. My Seeds Sprout… Then Die!
Everything starts great—your seeds germinate, tiny seedlings appear… then suddenly, they wilt and die. This is often called “damping off.”
Here’s how to prevent it:
- Don’t overwater. Too much moisture breeds mold and disease. Once seeds sprout, only water when the soil starts drying out. Bottom watering is best—but don’t let them sit in standing water.
- Avoid overcrowding. Seedlings need airflow. Give them space and keep them in a well-ventilated area.
- Use clean soil. Many seedling diseases come from dirty pots or contaminated soil. Wash seed trays yearly, and consider sterile soil if problems persist. You can also pasteurize soil before use.
3. My Seedlings Are Alive… But Not Growing!
They sprouted, they’re green… but they just won’t grow! Like with germination, different seeds have different needs, but here are common stunting culprits:
- Wrong temperature. Cold slows growth. Warm-weather crops (peppers, tomatoes, eggplants) prefer temps around 75°F. If they’re small, don’t worry—they’ll catch up once it warms up outside.
- Nutrient deficiency. If your seed-starting mix lacks nutrients, growth stalls. Watch for deficiency signs and feed seedlings lightly as they grow.
- Overwatering. The #1 cause of stunted growth! Yellow tips? Likely overwatering. Waterlogged soil suffocates roots. Let soil dry slightly between waterings—it should be moist, not soaked.
4. My Seedlings Are Tall, Thin, and Leggy!
Leggy seedlings happen when they stretch for light. Here’s how to fix it:
- Rotate trays. If using a south-facing window, turn them a few times daily so all plants get equal light. Even under grow lights, rotating helps.
- Use sunny days. On warm days, set seedlings outside (in a sheltered spot) for a few hours. They’ll soak up sunlight and start hardening off.
- Add a grow light. Even with a sunny window, extra light ensures 15–18 hours of daily exposure.
- Thin them out. Crowded seedlings compete for light—give them space!